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Jornalistas versus Influencers. Tendência e credibilidade em conflito na crítica gastronômica de Brasil e Portugal
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A presente dissertação investiga o desenvolvimento da crítica gastronômica perante a popularização cada vez mais rápida das redes sociais e, consequentemente, dos influenciadores digitais com foco na comida. O estudo compreende a crítica gastronômica como pilar fundamental do jornalismo cultural e procura fazer uma comparação entre o jornalista especializado em gastronomia, o influenciador digital, e entender: quais as principais diferenças entre o jornalista gastronômico e o influencer que faz reviews de restaurantes? Como estes dois personagens antagônicos se veem na crítica? A crítica gastronômica vai acabar? Quais as possíveis soluções para o crítico/jornalista gastronômico seguir relevante?
Para compreender tais fenômenos e questões, foi utilizada uma das metodologias que acreditamos ser das mais adequadas para uma especialização em jornalismo: entrevistas. Após uma análise com base em estudos sobre a afirmação da crítica e da crônica gastronômica nos principais meios de comunicação de Brasil e Portugal ao longo dos anos e uma abordagem investigativa às redes sociais e aos influenciadores digitais como fenômeno do pós-modernismo, foram preparadas entrevistas semi-estruturadas para 12 dos principais jornalistas, influenciadores e chefs de cozinha de Brasil e Portugal.
Críticos gastronômicos como Josimar Melo, Ricardo Felner e jornalistas como Catarina Luís Moura e Daniel Neto, sucesso nas redes como a página @baixagastronomia, foram os escolhidos para representarem o ponto de vista do jornalista especializado. Do lado dos influencers, selecionamos alguns fenômenos do Instagram e Tik Tok, todos que de certa forma aparentam em um primeiro momento serem páginas de crítica gastronômica, sendo eles Sabrina Cardoso (@reviews.pt), Bernardo Soares (@reviewsdomustache) e Jorge Ferreira (@gatropiço).
Os estrelados chefs José Avillez (Belcanto) e Rafa Costa e Silva (Lasai), além de Marlene Vieira (Zumzum Gastrobar) e Janaína Torres (Bar Dona Onça), foram os escolhidos para dar sua perspectiva sobre o tema. António Loureiro (A Cozinha), Rodrigo Castelo (Ó Balcão) e Vitor Taiki (Cura) também deram um contributo para o estudo em momentos profissionais que surgiram nos últimos meses no âmbito do trabalho deste pesquisador enquanto repórter gastronômico do Diário de Notícias e do DN Brasil.
Após uma análise das entrevistas, a presente dissertação mostra as principais diferenças entre o crítico e o influencer, e os prós e contras de cada abordagem tendo em conta principalmente a ótica do normalmente criticado, os chefs de cozinha. Ao voltar atrás na bibliografia e partir do princípio de análise de uma sociedade extremamente consumista, além de analisar as tendências das novas gerações para com o consumo de notícias na atualidade, é possível concluir que o jornalista gastronômico - tal como o jornalista de qualquer outra área - terá de se reconstruir se quiser continuar com um papel relevante e atingir as massas em uma era aparelhada pelo mundo digital. Para obter com êxito tal efeito, uma produção de conteúdo multiplataforma, já utilizada por diversos jornais, é uma das principais saídas para a resistência da mídia.
This dissertation investigates the development of food criticism in light of the rapid rise of social media and, consequently, the increasing influence of digital influencers focused on food. The study views gastronomic criticism as a fundamental pillar of cultural journalism and seeks to compare the role of the specialized food journalist with that of the digital influencer, considering not only the narrative structure proposed by each, but also how the public consumes the information and how these two contrasting figures perceive themselves in the realm of food criticism. To understand these phenomena and questions, interviews were chosen as the primary methodology, deemed most suitable for a study within the scope of journalism specialization. After a thorough analysis based on studies about the evolution of food criticism and journalism in major media outlets in Brazil and Portugal over the years, as well as an investigative approach to social media and digital influencers as a postmodern phenomenon, semi-structured interviews were conducted with 11 of the leading journalists, influencers, and chefs from Brazil and Portugal. Food critics like Josimar Melo, Ricardo Felner, and journalists such as Catarina Luís Moura and Daniel Neto (@baixagastronomia), were selected to represent the specialized journalism perspective. On the influencer side, prominent figures from Instagram and TikTok, who appear to present food criticism at first glance, were chosen, including Sabrina Cardoso (@reviews.pt), Bernardo Soares (@reviewsdomustache), and Jorge Ferreira (@gatropiço). Renowned chefs such as José Avillez (Belcanto), Rafa Costa e Silva (Lasai), Marlene Vieira (Zumzum Gastrobar), and Janaína Torres (Bar Dona Onça) offered their perspectives on the topic. Additionally, António Loureiro (A Cozinha), Rodrigo Castelo (Ó Balcão), and Vitor Taiki (Cura) contributed to the study during professional engagements that arose in recent months within this researcher’s role as a food reporter for Diário de Notícias and DN Brasil. Following the analysis of the interviews, this dissertation highlights the key differences between critics and influencers, and the advantages and disadvantages of each approach, particularly from the perspective of those often criticized: chefs. By revisiting literature and adopting an analytical approach based on a highly consumer-driven society, while examining the trends of younger generations in news consumption today, the conclusionis that food journalists—like journalists in any other field—must reinvent themselves to remain relevant and reach the masses in an age dominated by digital platforms. One of the main strategies for sustaining traditional media's relevance, already adopted by various news outlets, is the development of multiplatform content production.
This dissertation investigates the development of food criticism in light of the rapid rise of social media and, consequently, the increasing influence of digital influencers focused on food. The study views gastronomic criticism as a fundamental pillar of cultural journalism and seeks to compare the role of the specialized food journalist with that of the digital influencer, considering not only the narrative structure proposed by each, but also how the public consumes the information and how these two contrasting figures perceive themselves in the realm of food criticism. To understand these phenomena and questions, interviews were chosen as the primary methodology, deemed most suitable for a study within the scope of journalism specialization. After a thorough analysis based on studies about the evolution of food criticism and journalism in major media outlets in Brazil and Portugal over the years, as well as an investigative approach to social media and digital influencers as a postmodern phenomenon, semi-structured interviews were conducted with 11 of the leading journalists, influencers, and chefs from Brazil and Portugal. Food critics like Josimar Melo, Ricardo Felner, and journalists such as Catarina Luís Moura and Daniel Neto (@baixagastronomia), were selected to represent the specialized journalism perspective. On the influencer side, prominent figures from Instagram and TikTok, who appear to present food criticism at first glance, were chosen, including Sabrina Cardoso (@reviews.pt), Bernardo Soares (@reviewsdomustache), and Jorge Ferreira (@gatropiço). Renowned chefs such as José Avillez (Belcanto), Rafa Costa e Silva (Lasai), Marlene Vieira (Zumzum Gastrobar), and Janaína Torres (Bar Dona Onça) offered their perspectives on the topic. Additionally, António Loureiro (A Cozinha), Rodrigo Castelo (Ó Balcão), and Vitor Taiki (Cura) contributed to the study during professional engagements that arose in recent months within this researcher’s role as a food reporter for Diário de Notícias and DN Brasil. Following the analysis of the interviews, this dissertation highlights the key differences between critics and influencers, and the advantages and disadvantages of each approach, particularly from the perspective of those often criticized: chefs. By revisiting literature and adopting an analytical approach based on a highly consumer-driven society, while examining the trends of younger generations in news consumption today, the conclusionis that food journalists—like journalists in any other field—must reinvent themselves to remain relevant and reach the masses in an age dominated by digital platforms. One of the main strategies for sustaining traditional media's relevance, already adopted by various news outlets, is the development of multiplatform content production.
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Jornalismo cultural Crítica gastronómica Redes sociais Influenciadores digitais Cultural journalism Food criticism Social media Digital influencers