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O “vestuário mourisco” no período moderno em Portugal: uma narrativa de exotismo?
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O ano de 711 marca o dealbar da presença muçulmana na Península Ibérica, dando início a um tempo de coexistência entre dois eixos civilizacionais opostos: Cristandade e Islão. Este convívio secular oscilou entre períodos de tensão e de confraternização, rompendo-se em finais do século XV, com a promulgação de um édito por D. Manuel I, que forçou as minorias étnico-religiosas (muçulmana e judaica) à conversão ao cristianismo, sob pena de expulsão do reino. Um dos vestígios mais marcantes do legado muçulmano é o vestuário, que exerceu uma influência considerável nos costumes ibéricos da época. Qualificado pelas fontes coevas como vestuário “mourisco”, este representará o conjunto de peças de roupa, acessórios e calçado com proveniência muçulmana, identificando-se como itens de utilização recorrente nas práticas de trajar dos séculos XV e XVI. A escassez e a ambiguidade das informações escritas, visuais e materiais tornam desafiante elaborar um vocabulário do vestuário “mourisco”, razão pela qual é inevitável uma aproximação aos materiais de estudo disponíveis na realidade espanhola, nunca esquecendo os estreitos laços políticos, sociais e culturais que uniam os dois vizinhos peninsulares. A pergunta de investigação presente no título desta dissertação pretende perceber até que ponto o vestuário “mourisco” se expressa como integrante da noção de “exótico” no Portugal da Idade Moderna. Sendo que o “exótico” está nos olhos de quem o vê, poderia este tipo de vestuário representar uma expressão do mesmo ao se diferenciar do vestuário de origem cristã?
The year 711 marked the beginning of the Muslim presence in the Iberian Peninsula, ushering in a period of coexistence between two opposing civilizational axes: Christianity and Islam. This secular coexistence oscillated between periods of tension and fraternization, breaking down at the end of the 15th century with the promulgation of an edict by King Manuel I, who forced the ethnic-religious minorities (Muslims and Jews) to convert to Christianity, under penalty of expulsion from the kingdom. One of the most striking vestiges of the Muslim legacy is clothing, which exerted a considerable influence on Iberian customs at the time. Qualified by coeval sources as “Moorish” clothing, this represents the set of garments, accessories and footwear of Muslim origin, identified as items of recurrent use in the dress practices of the 15th and 16th centuries. The scarcity and ambiguity of written, visual and material information makes it challenging to draw up a vocabulary of “Moorish” clothing, which is why it is inevitable to approach the study materials available in Spain, never forgetting the close political, social and cultural ties that united the two peninsular neighbors. The research question in the title of this dissertation aims to understand the extent to which “Moorish” clothing is expressed as part of the notion of the “exotic” in Modern Age Portugal. Since the “exotic” is in the eye of the beholder, could this type of clothing represent an expression of it by differentiating itself from clothing of Christian origin?
The year 711 marked the beginning of the Muslim presence in the Iberian Peninsula, ushering in a period of coexistence between two opposing civilizational axes: Christianity and Islam. This secular coexistence oscillated between periods of tension and fraternization, breaking down at the end of the 15th century with the promulgation of an edict by King Manuel I, who forced the ethnic-religious minorities (Muslims and Jews) to convert to Christianity, under penalty of expulsion from the kingdom. One of the most striking vestiges of the Muslim legacy is clothing, which exerted a considerable influence on Iberian customs at the time. Qualified by coeval sources as “Moorish” clothing, this represents the set of garments, accessories and footwear of Muslim origin, identified as items of recurrent use in the dress practices of the 15th and 16th centuries. The scarcity and ambiguity of written, visual and material information makes it challenging to draw up a vocabulary of “Moorish” clothing, which is why it is inevitable to approach the study materials available in Spain, never forgetting the close political, social and cultural ties that united the two peninsular neighbors. The research question in the title of this dissertation aims to understand the extent to which “Moorish” clothing is expressed as part of the notion of the “exotic” in Modern Age Portugal. Since the “exotic” is in the eye of the beholder, could this type of clothing represent an expression of it by differentiating itself from clothing of Christian origin?
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História e cultura da moda Península Ibérica Muçulmanos Vocabulário Longa duração History and culture of fashion Iberian Peninsula Muslims Vocabulary Long duration