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Fatores relevantes a considerar para a implementação de uma rede de recolha municipal de resíduos têxteis
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Os têxteis são um setor imprescindível para a sociedade e uma indústria de elevada relevância para
a economia global. Esta é uma das maiores indústrias a nível mundial, a qual integra mais de 300 milhões
de trabalhadores em toda a cadeia de valor e tem grande significado para a indústria de manufatura da
Europa. Devido à sua vasta aplicação, a produção e consumo de têxteis têm impactes ambientais,
climáticos e sociais significativos, os quais são promovidos pelo modelo linear “extrair, fabricar, utilizar e
deitar fora”, característico da indústria, representando o consumo de cerca de 98 milhões de toneladas de
recursos por ano e a produção de 92 milhões de toneladas de resíduos em 2015 (Ellen MacArthur
Foundation, 2017; FST-CSC, 2020).
Atualmente, a indústria têxtil representa uma das principais indústrias poluentes, sendo que na
União Europeia (UE) se posiciona em 2º lugar para o maior uso de solo, em 4º lugar no consumo de
matérias-primas e água, e em 5º lugar no que respeita a emissões de Gases com Efeito de Estufa (GEE)
(ETC/WMGE, 2019). Por forma a prevenir e combater a produção de resíduos têxteis, a UE definiu, através
das diretivas 2018/851 e 2018/850, a obrigação de os Estados-Membros implementarem um sistema de
recolha seletiva de resíduos têxteis até 1 de janeiro de 2025, estabelecendo metas para a preparação para
reutilização e reciclagem de 55, 60 e 65% dos resíduos urbanos (RU) até, respetivamente, 2025, 2030 e
2035 e o limite de deposição em aterro de apenas 10% dos RU produzidos. Estas diretivas foram
transpostas para a ordem jurídica interna através do DL 102-D/2020, de 10 de dezembro, atribuindo a
responsabilidade da disponibilização de uma rede de recolha seletiva de resíduos têxteis às entidades
responsáveis pelo sistema municipal ou multimunicipal de gestão de RU, até 1 de janeiro de 2025.
Face a este desafio, considerou-se importante analisar os fatores relevantes a considerar para a
implementação de uma rede de recolha municipal de resíduos têxteis. Para o efeito, começou-se por fazer
uma extensa pesquisa bibliográfica sobre o setor têxtil, os seus impactes ambientais, sociais e económicos,
os princípios da economia circular aplicados à indústria têxtil, as políticas e legislação aplicáveis e os
sistemas de recolha existentes a nível internacional e nacional. Para a componente prática do trabalho,
selecionou-se como caso de estudo o concelho de Cascais e, através de inquéritos, por questionário e
entrevista, realizados a diferentes atores com relevância para este tipo de recolha, designadamente aos
munícipes de Cascais, aos técnicos da entidade responsável pela recolha dos RU produzidos no concelho
(Cascais Ambiente), às IPSS e lojas localizadas no município que têm contentores para a deposição de roupa
usada ou que compram e vendem roupa usada, procurou-se conhecer a realidade neste concelho em
matéria de número e localização de contentores e lojas, as opiniões, atitudes e comportamentos destes
diferentes atores. Em relação aos munícipes, procurou-se, igualmente, avaliar se o perfil dos que já
costumam depositar as suas roupas usadas nos contentores destinados ao efeito é ou não diferente dos
que não têm este hábito, pois essas diferenças poderão ser relevantes para o tipo de comunicação e
sensibilização a fazer.
Desta forma, foi possível recolher informação relativa à situação atual do município em termos de
iniciativas de recolha de têxteis e de equipamentos utilizados para esta recolha, neste caso, contentores
próprios para a recolha de têxteis, cujas localizações foram georreferenciadas em mapa e, com base na
revisão da literatura e nos resultados obtidos por inquérito realizado aos diferentes atores, foi possível
identificar os aspetos mais relevantes e as medidas necessárias para uma implementação bem-sucedida
de uma rede de recolha seletiva de resíduos têxteis no concelho de Cascais.
The textile industry is an indispensable sector for society and a highly relevant industry for the global economy. This is one of the largest industries worldwide, with more than 300 million employees across the entire value chain, and with great significance for Europe's manufacturing industry. Due to its wide application, textile production and consumption have significant environmental, climate and social impacts, which are promoted by the linear "extract, make, use and dispose" model characteristic of the industry, and is responsible for consuming around 98 million tonnes of resources per year and for having produced 92 million tonnes of waste in 2015 (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017; FST-CSC, 2020). Currently, the textile industry represents one of the main polluting industries, placing 2nd for highest land use, 4th for consumption of raw materials and water, and 5th for GHG emissions in the EU (ETC/WMGE, 2019). Therefore, in order to prevent and combat the production of textile waste, the EU has defined, through directives 2018/851 and 2018/850, the obligation for Member States to implement a separate collection system for textiles by 1 January 2025, setting targets for preparing for reuse and recycling of 55, 60 and 65% of municipal waste by 2025, 2030 and 2035 respectively, and a limit on landfilling of only 10% of the municipal waste produced. These directives were transposed to the Portuguese legislation through the DL 102-D/2020, attributing the responsibility of providing a network of selective collection of textile waste to the entities responsible for the municipal or multimunicipal waste management system by 1 January 2025. Given this challenge, it was considered important to analyze the relevant factors to be taken into consideration in the implementation of a municipal textile waste collection network. To this end, extensive bibliographic research was conducted on the textile sector, its environmental, social and economic impacts, the principles of the circular economy applied to the textile industry, the applicable policies and legislation, and the existing international and national collection systems. For the practical component of the work, the municipality of Cascais was selected as a case study and, through questionnaire and interview surveys, carried out with different stakeholders relevant to this type of collection, namely the citizens of Cascais, technicians from the entity responsible for the collection of municipal waste produced in the municipality (Cascais Ambiente), private social solidarity institutions, and stores located in the municipality that have containers for the disposal of used clothing or that buy and sell used clothing, we sought to understand the reality in this municipality in terms of number and location of containers and stores, the opinions, attitudes and behaviours of these different actors. Regarding the residents, we also tried to assess whether or not the profile of those who already deposit their used clothes in the containers intended for this purpose is different from those who do not have this habit, as these differences may be relevant to the type of communication and awareness to be made. Thus, it was possible to collect information regarding the current situation of the municipality in terms of textile collection initiatives and equipment used for this collection, in this case, containers suitable for textile collection, locations which were represented on a map and , based on the literature review and the results obtained from the survey conducted to the different stakeholders, it was possible to identify the most relevant aspects and the necessary measures for the successful implementation of a selective collection network for textile waste in the municipality of Cascais.
The textile industry is an indispensable sector for society and a highly relevant industry for the global economy. This is one of the largest industries worldwide, with more than 300 million employees across the entire value chain, and with great significance for Europe's manufacturing industry. Due to its wide application, textile production and consumption have significant environmental, climate and social impacts, which are promoted by the linear "extract, make, use and dispose" model characteristic of the industry, and is responsible for consuming around 98 million tonnes of resources per year and for having produced 92 million tonnes of waste in 2015 (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017; FST-CSC, 2020). Currently, the textile industry represents one of the main polluting industries, placing 2nd for highest land use, 4th for consumption of raw materials and water, and 5th for GHG emissions in the EU (ETC/WMGE, 2019). Therefore, in order to prevent and combat the production of textile waste, the EU has defined, through directives 2018/851 and 2018/850, the obligation for Member States to implement a separate collection system for textiles by 1 January 2025, setting targets for preparing for reuse and recycling of 55, 60 and 65% of municipal waste by 2025, 2030 and 2035 respectively, and a limit on landfilling of only 10% of the municipal waste produced. These directives were transposed to the Portuguese legislation through the DL 102-D/2020, attributing the responsibility of providing a network of selective collection of textile waste to the entities responsible for the municipal or multimunicipal waste management system by 1 January 2025. Given this challenge, it was considered important to analyze the relevant factors to be taken into consideration in the implementation of a municipal textile waste collection network. To this end, extensive bibliographic research was conducted on the textile sector, its environmental, social and economic impacts, the principles of the circular economy applied to the textile industry, the applicable policies and legislation, and the existing international and national collection systems. For the practical component of the work, the municipality of Cascais was selected as a case study and, through questionnaire and interview surveys, carried out with different stakeholders relevant to this type of collection, namely the citizens of Cascais, technicians from the entity responsible for the collection of municipal waste produced in the municipality (Cascais Ambiente), private social solidarity institutions, and stores located in the municipality that have containers for the disposal of used clothing or that buy and sell used clothing, we sought to understand the reality in this municipality in terms of number and location of containers and stores, the opinions, attitudes and behaviours of these different actors. Regarding the residents, we also tried to assess whether or not the profile of those who already deposit their used clothes in the containers intended for this purpose is different from those who do not have this habit, as these differences may be relevant to the type of communication and awareness to be made. Thus, it was possible to collect information regarding the current situation of the municipality in terms of textile collection initiatives and equipment used for this collection, in this case, containers suitable for textile collection, locations which were represented on a map and , based on the literature review and the results obtained from the survey conducted to the different stakeholders, it was possible to identify the most relevant aspects and the necessary measures for the successful implementation of a selective collection network for textile waste in the municipality of Cascais.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Resíduos têxteis Comportamentos de consumo e descarte de roupas usadas; Recolha seletiva; Concelho de Cascais Recolha seletiva Concelho de Cascais