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Early modern knitted caps (fifteenth to sixteenth centuries)
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The knitted cap was the ubiquitous and most visible garment men wore throughout early modern society, from apprentices to royals. Documentary evidence also suggests that red was a conventional color for specific garments in the sixteenth century, including knitted caps. However, most knitted caps in museum collections are now a muddy brown characteristic of archaeological textiles, and their original color has seldom been studied. Considering the potential of microspectrofluorimetry for analyzing dyes in ancient textiles and manuscript illuminations, this technique was tested on six caps dating from the fifteenth to sixteenth centuries examined in the Knitting in Early Modern Europe research project. The colors are in good preservation condition in two samples, whereas the others show extensive degradation. The emission and excitation spectra acquired allowed the identification of the similarities and differences between samples, grouping them into different dye sources such as cochineal-based and madder-based (RED1 and RED2, respectively). For the coif cap and split-brimmed cap in good condition, analysis through HPLC–MS confirmed the sources of the dyes as Rubia tinctorum and cochineal. It also disclosed the source for another coif cap as Kermes vermilio (RED4). The other knitted items are possibly madder-based (RED3), but HPLC–MS did not allow confirmation of the madder source. The continuing development of a database of excitation and emission spectra acquired from historical textiles, such as the knitted caps, will support the identification of dye sources and specific formulations. Although this technique demands a comprehensive database of references for comparison with the complex signals identified, it allows for rapid spectra acquisition, providing tremendously valuable information.
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Funding Information:
It was also supported through a Marie Skłodowska Curie Research Fellowship (grant agreement 656748) and a Stiftelsen Agnes Geijers fond for Nordisk textilforskning grant number FS2019-0056 to Jane Malcolm-Davies; and a Janet Arnold Award from Society of Antiquaries of London to Beatrice Behlen, Museum of London.
The authors would like to thank the Bernisches Historisches Museum, the Historisches Museum Basel, the Museum of London, and Nationalmuseet Denmark for allowing access to the knitted textiles. It is a pleasure to thank Meredith Montague and Richard Newman for the spectacular time at the MFA—Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, and the fantastic research. This publication is based upon work from COST Action EuroWeb, CA19131, supported by COST (European Cooperation in Science and Technology).
Palavras-chave
Caps Knit Molecular fluorescence Natural dyes Red dyes Textiles Conservation Chemistry (miscellaneous) Archaeology Materials Science (miscellaneous) Archaeology Computer Science Applications Spectroscopy