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A Royal Mystery

2024-08Artigo científico Acesso aberto
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dc.contributor.authorMalcolm-Davies, Jane
dc.contributor.authorBehlen, Beatrice
dc.contributor.authorTeixeira, Natércia
dc.contributor.authorNabais, Paula
dc.contributor.institutionLAQV@REQUIMTE
dc.contributor.institutionFaculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia (FCT)
dc.contributor.institutionDCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro
dc.contributor.pblMDPI - Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute
dc.date.accessioned2025-02-04T21:18:36Z
dc.date.available2025-02-04T21:18:36Z
dc.date.issued2024-08
dc.descriptionFunding Information: This research was supported by a Janet Arnold Award from the Society of Antiquaries of London to Beatrice Behlen, London Museum. Thanks are due to the Grimsthorpe and Drummond Castle Trust for permission to take samples. The Knitting in Early Modern Europe project, which initiated research into evidence for early knitting, was funded by the Marie Sk\u0142odowska Curie Research Fellowship (grant agreement 656748) and a Stiftelsen Agnes Geijers fond for Nordisk textilforskning, grant number FS2019-0056, to Jane Malcolm-Davies. This publication is based upon work from COST Action EuroWeb, CA19131, supported by COST (European Cooperation in Science and Technology). Publisher Copyright: © 2024 by the authors.
dc.description.abstractEarly modern materials are not well represented in dye and mordant analyses despite extensive documentary evidence suggesting the enormous demand for coloured fabrics, even among those below the elite. Non-wovens likewise receive less attention than woven textiles despite their ubiquity in the early modern historical record. Knitted garments, in particular, have rarely been subjected to dye analysis. One garment is noteworthy for its colourfulness, despite not being visible in formal wear. Men throughout society wore knitted undergarments known as waistcoats from the late sixteenth century. The waistcoats under investigation here are from the collections at the London Museum and the Grimsthorpe and Drummond Castle Trust, Scotland. They are made of silk and are now a pale blue-green colour. Small samples were taken from each and subjected to a series of analytical techniques: micro-Raman spectroscopy, UV-Vis microspectrofluorimetry, and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with a mass spectrometer. Using this protocol, it was possible to characterise the dyes in the waistcoats by ensuring that maximum information was gleaned from a sample before it was exhausted.en
dc.description.versionpublishersversion
dc.description.versionpublished
dc.format.extent10
dc.format.extent2820676
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/heritage7080189
dc.identifier.issn2571-9408
dc.identifier.otherPURE: 107189165
dc.identifier.otherPURE UUID: 6a4c6af7-d0c5-47e5-8dbf-aa6f0b2fd328
dc.identifier.otherScopus: 85202622891
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10362/178420
dc.identifier.urlhttps://www.scopus.com/pages/publications/85202622891
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.relationinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/CEEC IND4ed/2021.01344.CEECIND%2FCP1657%2FCT0028/PT
dc.relationYES – Disclosing Lost yellows: Science and Art for a Sustainable Preservation of Natural Yellows in Cultural Heritage
dc.relationNot Available
dc.relationAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
dc.relationinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/Concurso de avaliação no âmbito do Programa Plurianual de Financiamento de Unidades de I&D (2017%2F2018) - Financiamento Programático/UIDP%2F50006%2F2020/PT
dc.subjectdye analysis
dc.subjectearly modern
dc.subjectindigo
dc.subjectknit
dc.subjectsilk
dc.subjectyellow dyes
dc.subjectConservation
dc.subjectArchaeology
dc.subjectMaterials Science (miscellaneous)
dc.titleA Royal Mysteryen
dc.title.subtitleA Multianalytical Approach for Dyestuff Identification in Seventeenth Century Waistcoatsen
dc.typejournal article
degois.publication.firstPage4017
degois.publication.issue8
degois.publication.lastPage4026
degois.publication.titleHeritage
degois.publication.volume7
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardNumber2021.01344.CEECIND/CP1657/CT0028
oaire.awardNumberCEECIND/00025/2018/CP1545/CT0009
oaire.awardNumberUIDB/50006/2020
oaire.awardNumberUIDP/50006/2020
oaire.awardTitleYES – Disclosing Lost yellows: Science and Art for a Sustainable Preservation of Natural Yellows in Cultural Heritage
oaire.awardTitleNot Available
oaire.awardTitleAssociated Laboratory for Green Chemistry - Clean Technologies and Processes
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/CEEC IND4ed/2021.01344.CEECIND%2FCP1657%2FCT0028/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/CEEC IND 2018/CEECIND%2F00025%2F2018%2FCP1545%2FCT0009/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDB%2F50006%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/Concurso de avaliação no âmbito do Programa Plurianual de Financiamento de Unidades de I&D (2017%2F2018) - Financiamento Programático/UIDP%2F50006%2F2020/PT
oaire.fundingStreamCEEC IND4ed
oaire.fundingStreamCEEC IND 2018
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStreamConcurso de avaliação no âmbito do Programa Plurianual de Financiamento de Unidades de I&D (2017/2018) - Financiamento Programático
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
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project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
rcaap.rightsopenAccess
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