Logo do repositório
 
Publicação

Traditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iran

2020-02-18Artigo científico Acesso aberto
Ver registo simples
dc.contributor.authorSharif, Samaneh
dc.contributor.authorNabais, Paula
dc.contributor.authorMelo, Maria J.
dc.contributor.authorConceição Oliveira, M.
dc.contributor.institutionDCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro
dc.contributor.institutionLAQV@REQUIMTE
dc.contributor.institutionInstituto de Estudos Medievais (IEM)
dc.contributor.pblMDPI - Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute
dc.date.accessioned2020-07-10T22:21:13Z
dc.date.available2020-07-10T22:21:13Z
dc.date.issued2020-02-18
dc.descriptionUIDB/00749/2020 UIDP/00749/2020
dc.description.abstractThis work provides new knowledge on natural yellows used in Iran. Seven biological sources were selected based on interviews with dye masters in Isfahan workshops (Iran). Delphinium semibarbatum, Eremostachys laevigata, Prangos ferulacea, Morus alba, Pistacia vera, Punica granatum, and Vitis vinifera are currently used in these workshops. Aiming to study the dye composition of wool samples dyed with the extracts of the selected biological sources and the changes induced by the dyeing procedures in the original chemical composition of the plant extract, raw materials and dyed wool (by us and in the workshops) were analyzed by HPLC–DAD and UHPLC–HRMS/MS. The main yellows for E. laevigata are luteolin-O-glycosides. In the other plant sources, the main chromophores are based on 3-O-glycosides of kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin. In pistachio hulls, myricitin derivatives were detected and we propose their use as markers. Generally, the solutions extracted from the wool displayed a higher amount of more polar compounds, but also a higher amount of aglycones. Importantly, the chromatographic profiles of the samples we prepared compared well with 17th c. yellows in Persian carpets, and therefore can be considered highly characterized references for the study of Persian yellowThis work provides new knowledge on natural yellows used in Iran. Seven biological sources were selected based on interviews with dye masters in Isfahan workshops (Iran). Delphinium semibarbatum, Eremostachys laevigata, Prangos ferulacea, Morus alba, Pistacia vera, Punica granatum, and Vitis vinifera are currently used in these workshops. Aiming to study the dye composition of wool samples dyed with the extracts of the selected biological sources and the changes induced by the dyeing procedures in the original chemical composition of the plant extract, raw materials and dyed wool (by us and in the workshops) were analyzed by HPLC–DAD and UHPLC–HRMS/MS. The main yellows for E. laevigata are luteolin-O-glycosides. In the other plant sources, the main chromophores are based on 3-O-glycosides of kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin. In pistachio hulls, myricitin derivatives were detected and we propose their use as markers. Generally, the solutions extracted from the wool displayed a higher amount of more polar compounds, but also a higher amount of aglycones. Importantly, the chromatographic profiles of the samples we prepared compared well with 17th c. yellows in Persian carpets, and therefore can be considered highly characterized references for the study of Persian yellows.en
dc.description.versionpublishersversion
dc.description.versionpublished
dc.format.extent16
dc.format.extent5086407
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/molecules25040908
dc.identifier.otherPURE: 17241095
dc.identifier.otherPURE UUID: 0de6b3dd-91f4-42c3-b26a-b120a761c88f
dc.identifier.otherScopus: 85079546417
dc.identifier.otherPubMed: 32085515
dc.identifier.otherORCID: /0000-0001-7393-6801/work/77076342
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10362/100673
dc.identifier.urlhttps://www.scopus.com/pages/publications/85079546417
dc.identifier.urlhttps://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/25/4/908
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.subjectConservation
dc.subjectDye analysis
dc.subjectFlavonoids
dc.subjectHPLC
dc.subjectMass spectrometry
dc.subjectPersian dyes
dc.subjectSoft extraction methods
dc.subjectYellow colors
dc.subjectAnalytical Chemistry
dc.subjectChemistry (miscellaneous)
dc.subjectMolecular Medicine
dc.subjectPharmaceutical Science
dc.subjectDrug Discovery
dc.subjectPhysical and Theoretical Chemistry
dc.subjectOrganic Chemistry
dc.titleTraditional yellow dyes used in the 21st century in central Iranen
dc.title.subtitleThe knowledge of master dyers revealed by HPLC-DAD and UHPLC-HRMS/MSen
dc.typejournal article
degois.publication.firstPage1
degois.publication.issue4
degois.publication.lastPage16
degois.publication.titleMolecules
degois.publication.volume25
dspace.entity.typePublication
rcaap.rightsopenAccess

Ficheiros

Principais
A mostrar 1 - 1 de 1
Miniatura
Nome:
molecules_25_00908_v6.pdf
Tamanho:
4.85 MB
Formato:
Adobe Portable Document Format
Ver/Abrir

Coleções

FCSH: IEM - Artigos em revista internacional com arbitragem científica