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"A principal riqueza que dali vem": Os têxteis bordados indianos em Portugal nos séculos XVI e XVII
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Resumo(s)
Desde o período em que ocorreram os primeiros contactos entre Portugal e a
Ásia, que os têxteis bordados chegaram em quantidades significativas aos portos
portugueses, com destino a Portugal e à Europa. Estes objectos foram alvo de maior
interesse a partir do século XVII, tendo adquirido uma crescente preeminência no
quotidiano português.
Este entusiasmo não só encorajou a chegada de um vasta diversidade de
tipologias, no que diz respeito à origem, estilo e técnica, mas também inspirou novos
produtos portugueses ao “estilo da Índia”, os quais até agora têm recebido reduzida
atenção. A distinção entre estes dois tipos de produções – indianas e portuguesas – é
uma tarefa bastante difícil devido à circulação fluida de matérias-primas e corantes,
modelos artísticos, conhecimentos técnicos, e até de artesãos, entre estas diversas
regiões do globo.
A presente dissertação adopta uma abordagem interdisciplinar, confrontando
fontes históricas com evidências técnicas e materiais nunca antes consideradas. Um
levantamento exaustivo das técnicas de produção permitir-nos-á identificar e
caracterizar novos grupos de objectos, clarificando, deste modo, a complexa realidade
da manufactura destes têxteis, o que inclui os métodos e organização do trabalho dos
bordadores, bem como características técnicas que se podem relacionar com
diferentes centros de produção. Com esta informação, será possível questionar e
clarificar a sua proveniência, produção e consumo.
From the time of the first contacts between Portugal and Asia, embroidered textiles arrived in significant quantities in the Portuguese ports, destined for Portugal and Europe. Interest in these objects increased dramatically in the 17th century and they came to gain increasing prominence in Portuguese daily life. This enthusiasm not only encouraged the arrival of a wide range of types, in terms of origin, style and technique, but also inspired new Portuguese products in the “style of India”, which have received little attention until now. Distinguishing these two types of production – India and Portugal – is a very difficult task owing to the fluid circulation of raw materials, diverse dyestuffs, artistic models, technical knowledge, and even artisans, between these vastly disparate regions of the globe. This dissertation takes an interdisciplinary approach that confronts historical sources with new technical and material evidence never considered before. An exhaustive survey of manufacturing techniques will allow us to identify and characterize new groups of objects, and thus clarify the complex reality of the manufacture of these textiles, including the methods and organization of the embroiderers’ work and technical characteristics that can be related to different production centres. With this information it will be possible to question and clarify their provenance, production and consumption.
From the time of the first contacts between Portugal and Asia, embroidered textiles arrived in significant quantities in the Portuguese ports, destined for Portugal and Europe. Interest in these objects increased dramatically in the 17th century and they came to gain increasing prominence in Portuguese daily life. This enthusiasm not only encouraged the arrival of a wide range of types, in terms of origin, style and technique, but also inspired new Portuguese products in the “style of India”, which have received little attention until now. Distinguishing these two types of production – India and Portugal – is a very difficult task owing to the fluid circulation of raw materials, diverse dyestuffs, artistic models, technical knowledge, and even artisans, between these vastly disparate regions of the globe. This dissertation takes an interdisciplinary approach that confronts historical sources with new technical and material evidence never considered before. An exhaustive survey of manufacturing techniques will allow us to identify and characterize new groups of objects, and thus clarify the complex reality of the manufacture of these textiles, including the methods and organization of the embroiderers’ work and technical characteristics that can be related to different production centres. With this information it will be possible to question and clarify their provenance, production and consumption.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Índia Consumo Produção Têxteis bordados Europa Europe Embroidery textiles Production Consumption