Conservation solutions for fashion museum collections: developing strategies for the preservation of polymeric synthetic coatings

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Publication . Ferreira, Joana Tomás; de Vrieze, Sander; van der Velde, Eline; Verkens, Kim; França De Sá, Susana; DCR - Departamento de Conservação e Restauro; LAQV@REQUIMTE; Associação Profissional de Conservadores-Restauradores de Portugal (ARP)

Synthetic-coated fabrics, often made of short-life expectancy coatings, namely plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p-PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), are challenging to preserve. These materials are poorly studied within the conservation field, and there is a lack of research and solutions for their preservation. This study aimed to provide insight into the yet unknown variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics in fashion collections. The subtle differences in layer construction and morphology were investigated in a selected set of materials to unveil production methods and better understand delamination damages, namely peeling and flaking. Optical microscopy provided primary material assessment, complemented by ATR-FTIR for molecular identification. A wide variability of synthetic-coated fabrics was reported and connections between morphology, production methods and delamination damages were suggested. Optical microscopy proved to be a powerful tool in the study of the stratigraphy of coated fabrics, enhancing material knowledge for more informed conservation decisions.

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Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia

Programa de financiamento

OE

Número da atribuição

2021.04565.BD